[{"content":"Intro In het vorige artikel ePub omzetten naar kepub is beschreven hoe je op een Kobo e-reader weer omslagafbeeldingen krijg. En in ePub naar de e-reader leg ik twee methodes uit om de boeken via de cloud te synchroniseren. Hiervoor synchroniseer ik de gehele Calibre Library naar Google Drive. Zoals beschreven is dat echter niet aangeraden door Calibre.\nInmiddels heb ik wat nieuwe inzichten en is mijn werkwijze veranderd. Meer handelingen automatiseren, minder handwerk! In onderstaande stappen gaan we automatisch epubs converteren naar kepub, en slaan we die op in een map die met een cloud opslagprovider wordt gesynchroniseerd. Deze laateste stap kan je uiteraard ook doen als je alleen met ePub bestanden werkt, zonder deze bestanden eerst te converteren.\nAutomatisch converteren naar kepub Stel eerst het gewenste output formaat in op kepub. Ga naar Preferences \u0026gt; Interface \u0026gt; Behavior. Ga nu naar Preferences \u0026gt; Adding books \u0026gt; Adding Actions. Nieuw toegevoegde boeken worden nu automatisch geconverteerd naar kepub.\nKobo Cloud plugin / Dropbox Mijn oude werkwijze synchroniseerde de gehele Calibre Library. Dit hield ook in dat alle boeken zowel in epub als kepub op mijn e-reader gezet werden. Niet ideaal. We laten nu de Calibre Library staan op de orignele locatie. Alleen de kepub gaan we opslaan in een map die in de cloud staat.\nDe Kobo Cloud plugin werkt o.a. met NextCloud, Google Drive of Dropbox. De configuratie van NextCloud of Google Drive zijn voor de meeste mensen de simpelste oplossing. Installeer en configureer de plugin volgens de instructies.\nDropbox via deze plugin is wat ingewikkelder. Sommige Kobo e-readers hebben echter standaard Dropbox ondersteuning. Kijk hiervoor op de Kobo Help pagina.\nSave to Disk Ga naar Preferences \u0026gt; Saving books to disk. Standaard staan bijna alle opties aan. Voor ons doel, synchroniseren van alleen e-books, is dat niet nodig. Zet daarom alle opties uit die je niet nodig vind. De belangrijkste optie is hier echter \u0026ldquo;File formats to save\u0026rdquo;. Zonder filter slaat Calibre namelijk het orignele epub bestand en het geconverteerde kepub bestand op. En dat willen we juist voorkomen.\nDaarnaast willen we, in geval van synchronisatie via NextCloud, geen submappen. Pas daarom de template aan naar iets zonder/slashes/in/de/naam. Dat worden anders automatisch submappen. Ik heb gekozen voor {authors} - {title}.\nOpslaan en synchroniseren Nu alle instellingen goed staan kunnen we de (automatisch) geconverteerde kepub bestanden gaan opslaan in je gekozen en reeds geconfigureerde cloud map.\nSelecteer in Calibre één of meerdere bestanden en klik op de \u0026ldquo;Save to Disk\u0026rdquo; knop. Navigeer naar de locatie waar je (Google Drive/NextCloud/Dropbox) bestanden staan, en kies de map die je geconfigureerd hebt in Kobo Cloud.\nNa enkele seconden staan je kepub bestanden in je cloudomgeving. Synchroniseer nu de e-reader, en de bestanden worden automatisch geimporteerd.\n","date":"2026-08-08T08:46:01+02:00","image":"/2026/08/08/e-books-via-calibre-automatiseren/hero_image.jpg","permalink":"/2026/08/08/e-books-via-calibre-automatiseren/","title":"e-Books via Calibre automatiseren"},{"content":"ePub mist afbeelding op Kobo Al jaren loop ik tegen het probleem aan dat bij de bibliotheek geleende e-Books in het .epub formaat geen omslagafbeelding laten zien op mijn Kobo e-reader. Dit terwijl bijvoorbeeld Calibre de omslagafbeelding wel laat zien. Gekochte boeken bij Bol werken wel. Zover ik weet komen die direct uit de Kobo Store en zijn dat onderliggend kepub bestanden en geen epub. En daarin zit het verschil.\nHet formaat kepub, niet geheel verrassend Kobo ePub, werkt net iets beter op Kobo e-readers dan normale ePub bestanden. Waaronder werkende omslagafbeeldingen.\nDRM Beveiliging Net zoals in E-Books Lenen op Linux maken we gebruik van Calibre.\nWil je nu naar een ander bestandsformaat converteren krijg je te maken met de DRM beveiliging.\nAlleen\u0026hellip; mag je de DRM beveiliging omzeilen? Diverse bronnen halen de Auteurswet artikel 29a aan.\nDegene, die doeltreffende technische voorzieningen omzeilt en dat weet of redelijkerwijs behoort te weten, handelt onrechtmatig.\nKortgezegd: Nee, DRM beveiliging mag je niet verwijderen. Ook niet voor eigen gebruik. Daarom geen directe linkjes in dit artikel, maar alleen de theorie.\nPlugins De Calibre plugin DeDRM kan de beveliging van boeken verwijderen. Je hebt ook de in het vorige artikel geinstalleerde en geauthoriseerde DeACSM plugin nodig.\nDeASCM Waarschijnlijk kan DeDRM de encryptie key automatisch vinden en is het niet nodig om de encryption key handmatig te exporteren uit DeACSM.\nIndien DeDRM in de volgende stap de encryption key niet automatisch vind, moeten we deze eerst even exporteren.\nGa naar Preferences \u0026gt; Plugins en dubbelklik op DeASCM. (Onder \u0026ldquo;File type \u0026gt; DeDRM\u0026rdquo;)\nKlik op de knop \u0026ldquo;Export account encryption key\u0026rdquo;. Sla het *.der bestand op. DeDRM Nadat Calibe is gestart ga je naar Preferences \u0026gt; Plugins \u0026gt; Load Plugin from file. Selecteer nu het DeDRM zipbestand. Herstart Calibre na installatie van de plugin. Ga naar Preferences \u0026gt; Plugins en dubbelklik op DeDRM. (Onder \u0026ldquo;File type \u0026gt; DeDRM\u0026rdquo;)\nKlik op de knop \u0026ldquo;Adobe Digital Editions ebooks\u0026rdquo;.\nAutomatisch\nKlik op het + knopje en de key wordt geimporteerd. Handmatig\nIndien de key niet automatisch wordt gevonden, klik op de knop \u0026ldquo;Import Existing Keyfile\u0026rdquo; en selecteer het in de vorige stap geexporteerde *.der bestand. ePub omzetten De DeDRM plugin doet zijn werk automatisch bij het toevoegen van nieuwe boeken. Als het boek voor de installatie van de DeDRM plugin al in Calibre stond, verwijder deze dan eerst uit Calibre. Doe dit door het boek te selecteren, rechtermuisknop: \u0026ldquo;Remove Books \u0026gt; Remove selected books\u0026rdquo;.\nVoeg het boek opnieuw toe in Calibre via de knop \u0026ldquo;Add books\u0026rdquo;. Dit kan door wederom het URLLink.acsm te importeren of een bestaand ePub bestand.\nSelecteer nu het boek en klik op de knop \u0026ldquo;Convert books\u0026rdquo;. Rechtsbovenin verander je \u0026ldquo;Output format\u0026rdquo; van EPUB naar KEPUB.\nCalibre kan heel veel veranderen aan e-books, zoals bijvoorbeeld het standaard font of lettergrote aanpassen. Zelfs woorden vervangen in boeken is mogelijk. Ooit eens een personage met een heel irritante naam een betere naam gegeven op deze manier. Dit is voor deze stap allemaal niet nodig.\nKlik rechtsonder op \u0026ldquo;OK\u0026rdquo; en het bestand wordt geconverteerd.\nkepub naar de e-reader Volg hiervoor dezelfde stappen zoals beschreven in ePub naar de e-reader.\n","date":"2026-08-07T09:14:31+02:00","image":"/2026/08/07/e-books-omzetten-naar-kepub/hero_image.jpg","permalink":"/2026/08/07/e-books-omzetten-naar-kepub/","title":"E-Books omzetten naar kepub"},{"content":"Hugo Powered website So it was time to update my website again. Just a simple new post. My last post is litteraly over 2 years ago. So.. Not my main routine :) Although in theory very simple, I always has issues with Jekyll. Mostlikely a me-issue, but none the less quite annoying.\nMeet Hugo Back then I was also looking to Hugo. So why not make it my new project.\nBoth systems are using Markdown. So it was quite easy to get my previous posts in Hugo. Every post needed a slightly modification in the header section, they differ a bit in options and also depending on the theme you are using.\nSo spent a few good moments, and here we are. For now ;-)\nImage source I try to use as many original/own images where possible. Other images are sourced from Pixabay, found in the Royalty-free images section.\n","date":"2026-08-06T08:02:26+02:00","image":"/2026/08/06/hugo/hero_image.jpg","permalink":"/2026/08/06/hugo/","title":"Hugo"},{"content":"Boeken lenen bij de bibliotheek op Linux besturingssystemen Als je e-books bij bijvoorbeeld de bibliotheek wilt lenen, krijg je vaak te maken met een Adobe DRM beveiligd boek. Of ja, boek. Je krijg eerst een URLLink.acsm bestand waarmee je het DRM beveiligde boek kan downloaden. De standaard methode hiervoor is om Adobe Digital Editions te gebruiken.\nZolang je Windows gebruikt geen enkel probleem. Maar ben je een Linux gebruiker? Het draaien van Adobe Digital Editions via wine is geen enkel probleem. De authorisatie werkt, URLLink.acsm bestand openen werkt. Hoef je alleen nog maar de ePub te kopieren naar de e-reader en klaar\u0026hellip; Zolang je e-reader geauthoriseerd is. En daar kwam ik achter toen ik mijn Kobo e-reader naar fabrieksinstellingen had hersteld.\nDe e-reader authoriseren In Windows kan je de e-reader met de computer verbinden en in Adobe Digital Editions het apparaat selecteren en authoriseren. Via wine kreeg ik mijn e-reader echter niet te zien. Geen authorisatie? Geen geleende boeken.\nInstalleer Calibre, en download de DeACSM plugin. Nadat Calibe is gestart ga je naar Preferences \u0026gt; Plugins \u0026gt; Load Plugin from file. Selecteer nu DeACSM_0.0.16.zip. Herstart Calibre na installatie van de plugin.\nPlugin authoriseren Ga naar Preferences \u0026gt; Plugins en dubbelklik op DeACSM. (Onder \u0026ldquo;File type \u0026gt; DeACSM\u0026rdquo;) Kies de optie \u0026ldquo;Link to ADE account\u0026rdquo;. Login met uw ByteBooks account. (Opvolger van Adobe ID) Laat de emulatie op ADE 2.0.1 staan.\nOnderstaande is een experimentele functie in DeACSM v0.0.16 en werkt alleen voor e-readers die de (verborgen) map .adobe-digital-editions hebben. Op mijn Kobo Clara 2E geen probleem. Kies de optie \u0026ldquo;Authorize eReader over USB\u0026rdquo;. Verbind nu de e-reader met je computer.\nAfhankelijk van uw Linux distributie, is het pad /media/ of /run/media/ gevolgd door gebruikersnaam/KOBOReader* Op een Kobo e-reader kan je de status controleren bij Meer \u0026gt; Instellingen \u0026gt; Accounts \u0026gt; Adobe.\nGeen Adobe Digital Editions meer nodig Dus nu terug naar Adobe Digital Editions om URLLink.acsm bestanden te openen? Kan. Werkt ook. Maar nog beter: Met de DeACSM plugin kan je deze bestanden nu direct openen in Calibre! Klik op \u0026ldquo;Add books\u0026rdquo; en selecteer het URLLink.acsm bestand. Na enkele seconden verschijnt het gedownloade boek in je Calibre library.\nePub naar de e-reader Je kan nu het ePub bestand naar je e-reader kopieren. Hiervoor zijn meerdere methodes. Welke methode je gebruikt maakt niet uit.\nHandmatig De standaard locatie is /home/username/Calibre Library/auteur/boek/ Verbind je e-reader met een kabel en open je file manager. Kopieer het epub bestand handmatig naar je ereader.\nVia Calibre Sluit je e-reader via een kabel aan op de computer. Na enkele seconden verschijnt in Calibre de knop \u0026ldquo;Send to device\u0026rdquo;. Selecteer een of meerdere bestanden in Calibre. Send to device.\nVia de Kobo Cloud plugin Via Kobo Cloud synchroniseer ik mijn Kobo e-reader. Dit kan o.a. vanaf Nextcloud, Google Drive of Dropbox. In Google Drive heb ik een gedeelde map eBooks.\nIn Calibre heb ik de Library locatie aangepast naar deze map. Alles wat in Calibre staat wordt hierdoor automatisch gesynchroniseerd naar Google Drive, en via de Kobo Cloud plugin weer naar mijn e-reader.\nNieuw inzicht: De Save to Disk optie goed instellen en gebruiken.\nDirect via Dropbox integratie (Kobo) Een aantal Kobo e-readers hebben directe ondersteuning voor Dropbox. Zie de Kobo Help pagina voor meer informatie. Ook bij deze methode zou je de Calibre Library locatie kunnen aanpassen naar je Dropbox folder. (Waarschijnlijk /home/username/dropbox/Apps/Rakuten Kobo/)\nNieuw inzicht: De Save to Disk optie goed instellen en gebruiken.\nDRM blijft behouden Deze methode verwijderd DRM niet. Dat is ook niet het doel van DeACSM. Daar zijn andere methodes voor. Dus netjes je geleende boek virtueel terugbrengen nadat hij is verlopen!\n","date":"2026-08-05T19:22:46+02:00","image":"/2026/08/05/e-books-lenen-op-linux/hero_image.jpg","permalink":"/2026/08/05/e-books-lenen-op-linux/","title":"E-Books Lenen op Linux"},{"content":"CWWK/TopTon black screen Recently I have bought a CWWK X86 P5 SUPER Mini PC for my OPNSense firewall. I bought the machine without storage and RAM, so I needed to provide my own.\nMy first idea was to replace my current Proxmox homeserver so I went with 32GB of RAM.\nLater I decided that I only wanted my firewall on this machine, so I didn\u0026rsquo;t need much RAM and bought 8GB. The memory modules I did test are Corsair VENGEANCE DDR5 SODIMM 32GB and Crucial RAM 8GB DDR5.\nBoth worked fine, but..\nA small PSA: When you first powered on the machine, or when changing memory, the first boot takes about a minute, without any beeps. Just a black screen. Every next boot is normal.\nIt is possible that this is also the case with other models and/or TopTon or other rebrands of this machine.\n","date":"2024-06-10T16:43:00+01:00","image":"/2024/06/10/cwwk-black-screen/hero_image.jpg","permalink":"/2024/06/10/cwwk-black-screen/","title":"CWWK Black Screen"},{"content":"Updated theme Since I switched to Jekyll I used Beautiful Jekyll as website theme. It is not bad but it wasn\u0026rsquo;t great either. So after viewing a few themes and testing, I have a winner. And it is\u0026hellip; Bulma Clean Theme.\n","date":"2023-06-09T19:00:00+01:00","image":"/2023/06/09/updated-theme/hero_image.jpg","permalink":"/2023/06/09/updated-theme/","title":" Updated Theme"},{"content":"Migrating from Wordpress to Jekyll Today I have started the migration of my Wordpress website to Jekyll. I will also experiment with hosting my site with GitHub Pages. Most of the content is already migrated, but there is some manual work left. It could be possible that a few images are missing or layout is a bit weird.\nMy site isn\u0026rsquo;t very big or interesting in general. So I will probably delete some articles and only keep the most useful or interesting ones.\nI mean, who cares that my site got a SSL certificate back in 2014? Ok, back then it wasn\u0026rsquo;t that common, but still. So\u0026hellip; delete post aaaand it\u0026rsquo;s gone. Only a couple of pages left which could be useful for other people.\n","date":"2023-05-02T13:34:00+01:00","image":"/2023/05/02/migrating-to-jekyll/hero_image.png","permalink":"/2023/05/02/migrating-to-jekyll/","title":"Migrating to Jekyll"},{"content":"Introduction Since a couple of weeks I have 3 Pekin Bantam hens in my garden. Although it is not a big deal opening and closing the chicken coop door daily, it still is a fun little project to automate this. For example the coop automatically opens at sunrise and closes at sunset.\nIn my Home Assistant installation I’m already using the ESPHome integration for other small sensors in my home. So why not make use of ESPHome?\nThe total cost for this project is about 25 euros. I did recycle multiple parts of my old defective 3D printer, therefore I only needed new endstops and the stepper driver.\nIn the partlist I added the current (July 2022) prices from AliExpress. I will add a link to the products I *think* you can use, although they are slightly different then the ones I already had. See it as a global shopping guideline.\nMy chicken coop door is a drawbridge style door. With some adjustments this project can also be used for a sliding door. My first proof-of-concept build was a sliding door, until I realized that I didn’t have the required height…\nPartlist This is the minimum amount of parts to get your own Home Assistant / ESPHome enabled chicken coop door.\nGuess it is probably a bit over-engineered. But hey, it works 🙂\nNodeMCU v3 CH340 (3 euro) USB adapter + micro USB cable (5 euro) NEMA 17 stepper motor (10 euro) Stepper motor wire (Included with motor) Timing belt (1 euro)\nSize: GT2-6mm, 1 meter Timing belt gear (1,30 euro)\n20 Teeth Bore 5mm, width 6mm A4988 stepper driver (1 euro) 12V, 2A power supply + DC male connector (3,50 euro) Some counterweight attached to the timing belt Optional / Nice to have Endstop (2x) (2,50 euro) Momentary button / push button (2x) I used a reset button with a 3D printed arcade button, but a premade button will also do fine) Chain, 1 meter The endstops are used to stop the stepper motor immediately when they are being pressed, even if the target or open_duration in the source code below aren’t met.\nIf you decide not to use endstops make sure to adjust the target and open_duration to match as closely as possible. This prevents the stepper motor from continuing spinning while the chicken coop door is already fully opened or closed.\nThe buttons are used to manually open or close the chicken coop door. Also useful when your WiFi or HomeAssistant isn’t working. You can always open/close the door.\nThe chain is added to prevent the weight of the door to “hang” on the motor constantly, instead the weight is “diverted” by the chain.\nVery optional 3D printer to print some parts. Multimeter (Setting/measuring the voltage reference for the driver) Soldering iron (Unless you don’t care about cable length) Shrinkable tube Dupont connectors (I always try to combine wires into a larger connector, feels more stable.) The following 3D print models were used. You can of course use others if you like them more.\nNodeMCU DIY Smart LED Case (Scaled the height / Z axis to 500%) NEMA 17 Mount Arcade-style tactile button Wiring Here is the schema to connect everything to the NodeMCU.\nThe NodeMCU itself is powered via micro USB. The A4988 driver is powered by the 12V 2A power supply and connected to the VMOD and GND pins. (Not drawn in the schema)\nThe stepper motor cable is connected to the A4988 driver. You need to connect phase 1 to 1A/1B and phase 2 to 2A/2B. Or 1 to 2A/2B and 2 to 1A/1B, this order is less important.\nFor some reason the stepper motor I used had the green and blue wires switched. So the phases weren’t wired correctly: 1A/2A and 1B/2B. Not a big deal, I just swapped them in the dupont connector.\nIn the schematics I used the (default) wiring order, I assume that this is correct for most motors and that mine was just a bit odd.\nSetting the correct VREF value It is important to set the correct VREF value on the A4988 stepper driver. The term VREF stands for voltage reference, basically the current provided from the driver to the stepper motor. To calculate the correct VREF, I want to point you to the detailed guide from all3dp. It is not very hard, but they explain it much better.\nSetting the value too low and your stepper motor can skip steps while having it too high can cause overheating and damage the motor. Although our usage isn’t as precise/heavy as a 3D printer. So I can imagine that skipping a few steps or a (short) period overheating isn’t really a big issue. Still better to prevent this.\nESPHome YAML Code It was a bit of trial and error to get it working, but in the end the chicken coop is working with the code below. Maybe that it could be done prettier, or maybe it even has some unnecessary code.\n1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 esphome: name: esp-chickencoop platform: ESP8266 board: nodemcuv2 wifi: ssid: !secret wifi_domotica password: !secret wifi_domotica_key fast_connect: true ap: ssid: \u0026#34;ESP Config Chickencoop\u0026#34; password: !secret wifi_domotica_key captive_portal: # Enable logging logger: # Enable Home Assistant API api: password: !secret api_key ota: stepper: - platform: a4988 id: chickencoop_door step_pin: D3 dir_pin: D4 max_speed: 500 steps/s acceleration: 50 deceleration: 100 cover: - platform: endstop name: \u0026#34;Chickencoop\u0026#34; id: chickencoop device_class: garage open_action: - delay: 100ms - stepper.report_position: id: chickencoop_door position: 0 - stepper.set_target: id: chickencoop_door target: 2000 - logger.log: \u0026#34;Chickencoop opening\u0026#34; open_duration: 20.0sec open_endstop: endstop_bottom close_action: - delay: 100ms - stepper.report_position: id: chickencoop_door position: 0 - stepper.set_target: id: chickencoop_door target: -2100 - logger.log: \u0026#34;Chickencoop closing\u0026#34; close_duration: 20.0sec close_endstop: endstop_top stop_action: - stepper.report_position: id: chickencoop_door position: 0 - stepper.set_target: id: chickencoop_door target: 0 - delay: 100ms max_duration: 15.0sec binary_sensor: # Endstop Top / Door fully closed - platform: gpio name: \u0026#34;endstop_top\u0026#34; pin: number: D5 inverted: true mode: INPUT_PULLUP id: endstop_top on_press: then: - logger.log: \u0026#34;Endstop TOP reached\u0026#34; - cover.stop: chickencoop - stepper.report_position: id: chickencoop_door position: 0 - stepper.set_target: id: chickencoop_door target: 0 # Endstop Bottom / Door fully opened - platform: gpio name: \u0026#34;endstop_bottom\u0026#34; pin: number: D6 mode: INPUT_PULLUP inverted: true id: endstop_bottom on_press: then: - logger.log: \u0026#34;Endstop BOTTOM reached\u0026#34; - cover.stop: chickencoop - stepper.report_position: id: chickencoop_door position: 0 - stepper.set_target: id: chickencoop_door target: 0 # Manual open button - platform: gpio pin: number: D1 mode: INPUT_PULLUP inverted: TRUE name: \u0026#34;Chickencoop manual opening\u0026#34; filters: # Small filter, to debounce the button press. - delayed_on: 25ms - delayed_off: 25ms on_press: then: cover.open: chickencoop # Manual close button - platform: gpio pin: number: D2 mode: INPUT_PULLUP inverted: TRUE name: \u0026#34;Chickencoop manual closing\u0026#34; filters: # Small filter, to debounce the button press. - delayed_on: 25ms - delayed_off: 25ms on_press: then: cover.close: chickencoop You can add it to the Home Assistant lovelace interface and it shows up as a garage door.\nThe residents And finally… the residents!\nMeet Els, Ans and Bep, here they are chilling at their chicknick table hidding for some rain under an umbrella.\n","date":"2022-07-01T20:14:51+01:00","image":"/2022/07/01/my-esphome-home-assistant-enabled-chicken-coop-door/hero_image.jpg","permalink":"/2022/07/01/my-esphome-home-assistant-enabled-chicken-coop-door/","title":"My Esphome Home Assistant Enabled Chicken Coop Door"},{"content":"For some reason Ubiquiti / UniFi doesn’t really love IPv6 after all those years. It took quite some time before the UniFi Controller itself supported IPv6. Beta IPv6 implementation started almost a year ago with the release of UniFi 5.7.7. But this doesn’t include the devices. Or at least not my Ubiquity AP-AC Lite. You can only configure IPv4 on the management interface.\nLuckily this doesn’t mean that your mobile devices can’t get IPv6, this works perfectly. Well perfectly… As long as you don’t use the Guest Portal for that SSID.\nIf you want to use the Guest Portal the accesspoint just drops all IPv6 traffic on your guest network.\nUser mrbig at the Ubiquity forums has found and posted a method to get SLAAC (Stateless autoconfiguration) working with the Guest Portal enabled.\nFor DHCPv6 (Stateful autoconfiguration) this method doesn’t seem to work.\nThe author does give a warning: All guests can send multicast traffic. So I guess that this could be a security issue. The original post is from 2015 and so far this still seems to be the best option.\nEdit the config.properties file (unifi path/data/sites/default/config.properties)\n1 2 3 config.system_cfg.1=ebtables.101.cmd=-t nat -I GUESTIN 1 -p IPv6 --dst 33:33:00:00:00:00/ff:ff:00:00:00:00 -j ACCEPT config.system_cfg.2=ebtables.102.cmd=-t nat -I GUESTIN 2 -p IPv6 -j AUTHORIZED_GUESTS config.system_cfg.3=ebtables.103.cmd=-t nat -I GUESTOUT 3 -p IPv6 -j ACCEPT Go to your UniFi Controller to adopt this changes: Devices \u0026gt; select your AP \u0026gt; Config \u0026gt; Manage Device \u0026gt; Force Provision.\nIf you connect to your guest network you should receive IPv6 addresses on your devices.\n","date":"2018-11-23T12:17:56+01:00","image":"/2018/11/23/unifi-guest-portal-with-ipv6/hero_image.jpg","permalink":"/2018/11/23/unifi-guest-portal-with-ipv6/","title":"UniFi Guest Portal With Ipv6"},{"content":"A free tip for people with a (to new?) Intel I219V (Or Intel I219-V for search results 🙂\nRecently I begun with the upgrade of my VMWare server, running on an Intel i3-6100 6th gen. My current motherboard’s chipset was only able to handle 6th and 7th gen and I wanted to upgrade to the Intel i5-8400 8th gen. So I also needed a new motherboard: ASRock H370M-ITX/ac.\nThis board has 2 network interfaces, the Intel I211AT and an Intel I219V. And the latter is a bit picky in VMWare.\nThe I219V should be supported in ESXi. So no problem, right? Untill I installed ESXi 6.7 and had only 1 network card available.\nAs it appears Intel created different I219V’s “generations” in the past years. My version is probably generation 7 (Hence the (7) in the name below), which has vendor/device ID: 8086:15bc.\n1 2 3 4 5 6 lspci -v | grep \u0026#34;Class 0200\u0026#34; -B 1 0000:00:1f.6 Ethernet controller Network controller: Intel Corporation Ethernet Connection (7) I219-V Class 0200: 8086:15bc -- 0000:01:00.0 Ethernet controller Network controller: Intel Corporation I211 Gigabit Network Connection [vmnic0] Class 0200: 8086:1539 According to VMWare this card (Specific the version with device ID 15bc) is native supported in ESXi 6.5 U2 but not in 6.7:\nhttps://www.vmware.com/resources/compatibility/detail.php?deviceCategory=io\u0026amp;productid=45884\u0026amp;vcl=true\nSo I decided to install ESXi 6.5 U2, and update to 6.7 afterwards. I have tested this with the current latest version, ESXi-6.7.0-20180804001-standard. In this version it is still working. Let’s hope that the future will be the same. Or that it will be supported native in ESXi 6.7 some day.\nUpdate 22/2/2019\nA clean install with ESXi-6.7.0-20190104001-standard is still not detecting this NIC, unless upgraded from 6.5 U2.\n1 2 3 4 5 esxcli network nic list Name PCI Device Driver Admin Status Link Status Speed Duplex MAC Address MTU Description ------ ------------ ------ ------------ ----------- ----- ------ ----------------- ---- ------------------------------------------------- vmnic0 0000:00:1f.6 ne1000 Up Down 0 Half 70:85:c2:7a:7d:26 1500 Intel Corporation Ethernet Connection (7) I219-V vmnic1 0000:01:00.0 igbn Up Up 1000 Full 70:85:c2:7a:7d:24 1500 Intel Corporation I211 Gigabit Network Connection According to other websites it should also be possible to install ESXi 6.7 directly, and by manually installing older drivers from ESXi 6.5 U2. Somehow this method didn’t work for me. And a clean install with 6.5 U2 with upgrade does.\n","date":"2018-09-07T10:31:14+01:00","image":"/2018/09/07/vmware-esxi-6-7-and-i219-v/hero_image.jpg","permalink":"/2018/09/07/vmware-esxi-6-7-and-i219-v/","title":"VMWare Esxi 6 7 and I219 V"},{"content":"The problem… While traveling around and visiting some nice remote campgrounds it sometimes occurs that there is only WiFI at the central building, or it is limited to 1 device only. And if you don’t have much mobile data… Problem!\nIn rare occasions it also happens that cellphone reception is quite eh, non existent 🙂\nEven with my limited internet usage during holidays I’d like to search/plan trips or send some pictures to family and friends to make them jealous.\nThe solution Connect the RaspberryPI to the existing network. Setup an accesspoint Pi-Fi. Connect your devices to your Pi-Fi.\nRequirements Raspberry Pi USB WiFi dongle microSD card Micro USB power adapter Network cable for initial configuration SSH client (e.g. PuTTY) It is recommended to use a Raspberry Pi 3 or newer, these versions have one WiFi adapter built in. Additionally you need one USB WiFi dongle. If you are using an older Raspberry Pi you will need two.\nUSB WiFi dongle I have bought the “600Mbps Dual Band 2.4/5Ghz Wireless USB WiFi Network Adapter Antenna 802.11” on eBay for less than 3 euro.\nThis adapter has a MediaTek (Ralink) mt7601u chipset. The chipset used in this adapter is supported by OpenWRT/LEDE. There is a small external antenna and it has an SMA connector (I hope this is the correct name!) so replacing it with a better antenna should be possible.\nThe USB dongle will be used to receive the existing WiFi network, while the Raspberry Pi itself will host your own WiFi network, for the fun called Pi-Fi. Having a large antenna will hopefully result in a stable connection with the existing network 🙂\nIt doesn’t really matter which WiFi dongle you buy, as long as the chipset is supported in OpenWRT/LEDE. And no, having Linux support doesn’t guarantee this!\nOpenWRT/LEDE Download the Raspberry Pi image from the OpenWRT/LEDE website. The current version is 17.01.4 LEDE. Choose the correct image, for the Raspberry Pi 3: rpi-3-ext4-sdcard.img.gz. Flash the image with a tool such as Etcher to a microSD card. Once you are done flashing the image insert it to your Raspberry Pi and power it on.\nYou need to give your computer a temporary static IP address in the 192.168.1.x range. If your current network is already in the 192.168.1.x range it is advised to connect your computer directly to the Raspberry Pi, or be sure that no other device (mostly routers) is using 192.168.1.1.\nOnce you are ready go to http://192.168.1.1 and click the login button and set a password.\nNow go to the page Network \u0026gt; Wireless\nYou will probably only see one wireless adapter because OpenWRT/LEDE doesn’t include many drivers. To get internet on your Pi-Fi we will need to join an existing WiFi network, which will be our Wireless WAN, or wwan.\nOn the wireless page you should see at least 1 adapter, the internal wireless adapter. “Generic MAC80211 802.11bgn (radio0)”. Click on the “Scan” button. Find your WiFi network and click “Join Network”. Enter the WPA passphrase if required. Be sure that “Create / Assign firewall-zone” is set to wan. Click “submit” followed by “Save \u0026amp; Apply”. Sometimes it is required to reboot to get internet working. Go to System \u0026gt; Reboot.\nDrivers Login via SSH (192.168.1.1) with username root, and your password.\nUpdate the package list:\nopkg update\nOptional: I find it usefull to have an extra package ‘usbutils’ installed, which provides ‘lsusb’ among some other tools.\nopkg install usbutils\nIn this example the USB adapter is using a mt7601u chipset, so let’s go ahead and install the drivers and load the module.\nopkg install kmod-mt7601u\nThis will also install the kmod-mac80211 and mt7601u-firmware packages. The driver is installed but not yet loaded.\nmodprobe mt7601u\nIf you are lucky your adapter is now recognized and added to the wireless config file automatically. Go back to the webinterface and go the page Network \u0026gt; Wireless. If there are two adapters everything is okay. And sometimes it is required to reboot.\nIf you still don’t see the adapter after a reboot please login via SSH again.\ncd /etc/config\nmv wireless bak.wireless # To create a ‘backup’\nwifi config \u0026gt; wireless # Writes a new ‘wireless’ file.\nOptional: Restart Luci webinterface via “/etc/init.d/uhttpd restart”.\nThe config In the webinterfe go to the page Network \u0026gt; Wireless.\nThere are two devices: radio0 and radio1. The radio0 device is your internal wireless adapter and radio1 is the USB wireless adapter.\nI suspect the internal wireless adapter to be less strong due to a smaller antenna, so I prefer to use the internal adapter as hotspot, while the USB adapter with a larger/stronger antenna is being used to connect to the existing wireless network.\nSetup your Pi-Fi hotspot In the radio0 section click the “Edit” button.\nChange Mode to “Access Point” and Network to “lan”. If you want your hotspot to be private you can change this in the tab “Wireless Security”. Click “Save \u0026amp; Apply” to eh.. save and apply the settings. What else did you expect? 🙂\nJoining existing wireless network Now we can join the existing wireless network with our USB adapter. In the radio1 section click the “Scan” button and join your wireless network.\nI often see the message “Wireless is disabled or not associated”. The easiest and quickest method to fix this seems to be the magical reboot. So once again perform a reboot if this happens.\nChange the IP range The 192.168.1.x range is quitte popular as a private network range. To prevent potential issues I’d like to change this to something less common.\nIn the webinterface go to the page Network \u0026gt; Interfaces.\nEdit the LAN interface and change “IPv4 address” to 10.13.37.1. Yes, very 1337 indeed… After you click on “Save \u0026amp; Apply” you can change your computers static IP address back to DHCP, or a static address in the 10.13.37.x range.\nWhile on the road Every time you visit a place and want to use your Pi-Fi as personal hotspot you will need to join the wireless network. As far as I know you can’t save multiple wireless networks. So when you revisit an old location you need to reconnect your Pi-Fi to the existing network.\nSo connect your device to your Pi-Fi network, open your browser and go to the webinterface (Now listening at http://10.13.37.1) and follow the steps described in “Joining existing wireless network”.\n","date":"2018-08-01T10:00:35+01:00","image":"/2018/08/01/project-pifi-raspberripi-as-travel-router/hero_image.jpg","permalink":"/2018/08/01/project-pifi-raspberripi-as-travel-router/","title":"Project Pifi Raspberripi as Travel Router"}]